California Breeders Union California Breeders Union

Gargoyle Gecko Care and Tips

Failure to grow

 I see one recurrent theme online from new gargoyle gecko owners "my gecko won't grow, my gecko won't eat!". I will put this simply, forgoing the rare occurrence of a gecko simply failing to thrive, this is without failing nearly always due to husbandry errors. I don't mean to assign blame to new keepers, there is simply a ton of bad advice out there on husbandry and when you're learning it's hard to know who to listen to. 

Scarcely is the problem not directly related to temperature and humidity. New Caledonia, northern Grande Terre specifically isn't "room temperature" in relation to most homes in the states. It is warm and humid. 6 months of the year it is in the 80s and 6 months of the year it is in the 70s. Keep in mind that surface temps greatly exceed ambient temps, and although it may be 82*F on a certain day exposed hollows can and do reach the upper 90s. 

Being ectothermic geckos require surface and air temperatures to regulate their body temperature. 

I keep my geckos warm for appx 9 months per year with ambient temperatures in the gecko room in the upper 70s to low 80s with a localized basking spot of appx 90F

3 months per year are split between going into and out of their winter cycling with the room dropping into the low 70s for 1 month, then the heat being turned off for 1 month then an additional exit month of heat on but ambient temps still in the low 70s.

During the 9 month active breeding season I run a humidifier and keep the rooms humidity in the 60-80% range additionally I spray my geckos lightly daily during this time period.

During the 3 dry months my humidifier is turned off, allowing the room to stabilize around 50% humidity and my geckos are sprayed lightly approximately 1 or 2 times per week.

I do not cycle animals for their first year and keep them sprayed, humid, warm and well fed.

Food Brands

 We all have our favorite brands which we prefer. I happen to use pangea and opt for their figs and insects. Truthfully at this point they're all adequate. Some may have a little more protein, or a slightly more natural fruit source. But at the end of the day, any of the "MRP" food options are more than sufficient to properly raise a gecko in captivity. I am a proponent for at least seasonally offering a variety of well gut loaded and supplemented live invertebrate prey, other than that use the brand and flavor you're fond of.